It’s 2017, and we’ve officially reached peak beauty oil.
Although facial oils like rosehip have been used for hundreds of years in skin-care, these topical elixirs have only recently been rediscovered as a potent beauty ingredient— and demand is sky-rocketing.
Global sales of jojoba oil (a favorite for blemish-prone skin) are expected to hit USD 252 million by 2024, largely for its use in cosmetics and skin-care. Meanwhile, industry stats show that sales in the beauty oil category have more than tripled in recent years. Like I said, peak beauty oil.
This isn’t unjustified hype either—these substances might be completely natural, but they’re also damn effective. Tamanu oil, for example, has been used by Polynesian women for wound and scar healing and acne treatment for generations, while grapeseed oil has been widely applied throughout Europe for hundreds of years. Introducing jojoba oil to my own skin care regimen was a game-changing tweak that completely changed my complexion, and I’ve been preaching the virtues of beauty oils ever since, eventually completing a diploma in organic skin care formulation, launching my own line of customized oils, and hosting oil blending workshops throughout the US and Australia.
There are a couple of basic things the uninitiated should know about using oils in your routine. First, not all types boast the exact same benefits, however they all work in a similar way: By creating an occlusive layer over the skin, oils trap in water to keep the skin looking and feeling more hydrated. At the same time, they deliver skin-loving antioxidants, fatty acids, and vitamins. Always look for unrefined, cold-pressed oils to make sure you’re getting the best quality.
When you buy a beauty oil (or any skin-care product actually), the first items on the ingredients list form the bulk of a product. These will usually include a number of “carrier oils” like jojoba, rosehip, grapeseed, sweet almond, or argan. Then, super-potent essential oils, which penetrate much more deeply, sometimes even into the bloodstream, will appear in small amounts, often making up less than two percent of the total product as while they’re effective in tiny quantities, can be harmful in larger amounts. Vitamin e is often added as a final ingredient to help the product last longer.
Different oils suit different skin types—while coconut oil might make you break out, other lighter versions can actually help acne-prone skin. Let me break down a few favorites for you here.
Grapeseed oil
You might be turned off grapeseed oil at first glance—it’s very, very green. If you can move past the appearance, this slippery elixir is great for dry and full skin. It’s jam-packed with vitamin E, vitamin C, and beta-carotene and other sexy skin-care buzzwords.
Rosehip oil
Here’s the thing about rosehip oil: A lot of skin-care companies will dilute it with cheaper, less effective oils but still slap “rosehip” on the label, so be sure to read the ingredients list to make sure you’re getting a pure product—or at least one that’s blended with other equally potent oils.
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Rosehip’s a great source of naturally-occuring vitamin A (retinoic acid) which can help to smooth fine lines, slow the signs of aging, clear scars, and hydrate the skin. It’s also one of the most fast-absorbing options, so if you hate the idea of greasy skin, use rosehip.
Jojoba oil
I could (and do) sing the praises of jojoba oil daily. This stuff is amazing, and the natural beauty secret of beauty editors across the planet. If you have acne-prone skin and the prospect of adding more oil to your already shiny face sounds terrifying, jojoba’s for you. It absorbs quickly, and jojoba oil’s molecular structure almost exactly mimics the sebum your skin naturally produces, which is why it works so damn well. It also ticks off all your favorite antis: anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant-rich, and is non-acnegenic, so won’t clog your pores and trigger a breakout. You’ll be obsessed, promise.
Argan oil
Maybe you’ve heard about argan oil and have even used it to give your hair a glossy, healthy finish. Well, the same qualities that make argan great for your locks make it an ideal ingredient in skin care. It’s ultra lightweight and fast-absorbing (so no greasy residue!), and is a beautiful anti-aging oil brimming with omega-6 fatty acids and vitamin E, which is a potent antioxidant. This crowd-pleaser is great for dry or oily skin and, like jojoba oil, is non-acnegenic.
Clove essential oil
This antimicrobial and antifungal essential oil is often used in beauty products skewed towards blemish-prone skin. It’s also believed to encourage blood flow to the skin, which could help with signs of aging like fine lines and sagging.
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Clary sage essential oil
Whether your skin’s looking and feeling too oily or too dry, clary sage essential oil could help. This natural ingredient is used in small quantities to help balance the skin’s oil production, so is particularly great this time of year when the weather (and you skin!) is changing—it literally signals to the skin cells when they should be producing more or less oil. Clary sage is also known to help calm and soothe inflamed skin, and eczema sufferers swear by it.