Why plant stem cell technology is coming to beauty products near you.

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Considering wacky ingredients already saturate the market (fancy a sheep placenta facial, anyone?), plant-derived stem cell extracts in beauty products might not seem overly riveting, but many believe they have the capability to seriously shake up skincare, particularly in the anti-ageing department.

So what exactly are they?

The newest buzz word in beauty, stem cells are cells that are not yet specialised, but can have the potential to change into cells with specific functions, such as skin cells. Once they are specialised, they can help create new cells that the body requires, such as helping skin regenerate after damage. They’re also capable of aiding skin renewal – making them very useful for anti-ageing.

While experimentation has been done on human skin cells before, there has been controversy surrounding the source and methods of extraction. As a result, the focus has shifted to plant stem cells which are also considered much more sustainable. This is because unlike humans, adult plants contain “totipotent” stem cells that have the potential to regenerate a whole plant.

How can they help your skin?

As we get older our self-regenerating skin cells operate at a slower rate. It’s when these cells start to outnumber the regenerated ones that common signs of ageing begin to appear. Various studies including a 2007 study by researchers at Russian State Medical University has found that natural plant stem cells contain powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties and can replicate the activity of the self-regenerating cells on the skin. (Post continues after gallery.)

A 2008 study published in the International Journal for Applied Science found that extracts from the Swiss Uttwilder Spätlauber apple “positively influences viability and resistance” against signs of ageing, UV resistance and cell death of human stem cells.

“Plant stem cells are highly concentrated, up to 1000 times more concentrated than some standard extracts, delivering powerful and highly effective results,” says Noella Gabriel, Director of Product and Treatment Development Elemis.

Common plants used now include edelweiss cells, which contain high concentrations of Leontipodic acids A and B which show strong antioxidant properties to protect against UV rays, grape, lilac, date palms, roses and a swamp plant, gotu kola.

Consulting Professor of Dermatology at the Duke University School of Medicine told Real Simple that extracts rather than live stem cells are used in cosmetics.

"To yield the most potent, stable extract, the fruits and the plants that are the source of the stem cells must be cultivated in a controlled environment, without any contaminants," she said.

Because of the unique method of extraction, the products can often be more costly.

When did it become "A Thing"?

Elle reports that plant stem cell technology first started appearing in skincare around 2008, shortly after the first studies showed what benefits it could have for skin, but Gabriel believes there's another reason for it's popularity now.

"More than ever before, clients are looking for results, therefore we are always looking for new cutting-edge and innovative ingredients, so for Elemis, plant stem cells was a natural ‘next step’ to help us achieve more clinically proven products and results," she says. (Post continues after gallery.)

Do they really work?

While scientific research has been done on the ability of some botanical extracts such as swiss apple, grape seed and edelweiss to encourage cell growth, some experts such as dermatologist Jessica Linder argue that additional research is needed to to verify the efficacy of some of the claims.

"As the scientific support for plant-derived stem cell research continues to grow, it is important to understand what these botanicals offer and how they work. In doing so, plant stem cell extracts scientifically proven to work can be incorporated into cosmeceutical products that hold the promise of not only stimulating the proliferation of human skin stem cells, but also protecting the skin from UV-induced oxidative damage," she concluded.

That said, there is no doubt plant stem cells can definitely enhance products and offer potential benefits in skincare. As more research is done in this area, you can expect to see even more plant stem cell-based products appearing on shelves. Watch this space.

Have you tried any plant stem cell-based products?