real life

TRAVEL: Beautiful Broome, WA

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Author and journalist Anneli Knight  is passionate about Broome’s sunsets, indigenous Australian bookstores, mango wine and famous pearls.

Broome presents you with a kaleidoscope of colour. Imagine opaque aqua waters glowing around mangroves framed by deep, red cliffs. Imagine 40 kilometres of white sand stretched into the horizon alongside long flat sandbars covered in a thin layer of water that reflects pink and orange sunset fusions.

This seaside town in the far-north west corner of Australia is one of the world’s most remote and spectacular beachside destinations. It is 5000 kilometres away from Sydney and Melbourne and offers grand skyscapes, an intense immersion into the natural world, and a total sense of isolation and escape – but with a suite of luxuries right there for you to indulge in.

The natural beauty of Broome is why you should travel there. Your visit could include an evening walk along Cable Beach watching the sun disappear behind the Indian Ocean before seeing a stage full of stars take their place in the sky. On a different night you could settle down on the cliffs for hours at Gantheaume Point and inhale a comic-style animation as the statuesque sandstone cliffs reflect shades of red you would not have believed exist in the real world. Town Beach is another well-coveted cove – much smaller in scale, but the blues of the water more dramatic and varied alongside a shoreline dotted with the bulbous Boab trees that characterise this region of Australia.

The town of Broome has a fascinating history as a pearling town that brought together a vibrant mix of Asian, Aboriginal and European cultures. This history is written into the maps of the place. The main strip of shops is called Chinatown, the Japanese Cemetery holds dozens of pearlers’ graves, and rows of high-end art galleries reveal the work from Indigenous and international artists. Probably the fastest way to step into Broome’s history is to watch a film in a deckchair under the stars at Sun Cinemas that was converted from a Japanese playhouse to an open air cinema in 1913.

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For a taste of the local scene, head to the Courthouse Markets on a Saturday morning where news and gossip is light-heartedly exchanged. The market is held under the shade of palm-trees shade in the gardens around the Broome Magistrates Court, across the road from the Broome prison. The market sells food (the freshly squeezed juices are a favourite), artworks, crafts and clothes and always features laid back live musical performances.

Broome is the big smoke of the remote Kimberley region, an area splashed across the world stage in Baz Luhrman’s film Australia. To the north-eastern edge of the coast is a 1500 kilometre stretch of red desert, hidden swimming holes, deep bounteous rivers and towering escarpments and mountain ranges. The Kimberley has a pioneering cattle station with stories of cowboys and adventurers sitting on the surface of tens of thousands of years of rich Indigenous history and culture.

The further you explore into this region the more intriguing and enchanting it becomes.

The pampering luxuries, culinary treats and organised adventures are an added bonus.

Here are some highlights:

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EATING

Aarli Bar

This cruisy café has the best coffee and breakfast in Broome. At night it has a twinkling atmosphere, making the most of the tropical night air with candlelit tables under a giant frangipani tree.
6 Hamersley St. (08) 9192 5529

Mango Place

This mango farm is at 12 Mile, an area located 18 kilometres (12 miles) north of Chinatown. The shop serves mango wines, chutneys and ice-creams and a small café serves up woodfired pizzas and live music on Sunday afternoons.
Lot 4, Kanagae Drive. (08) 9192 5462

Matso’s Brewery

This bar and restaurant offers a range of boutique beers that are brewed on site and is famous for its ginger beer.
www.matsosbroomebrewery.com.au

Noodlefish Roku

This restaurant serves some of the best meals in Broome in an unassuming atmosphere.
Shop 5/26 Dampier Terrace. (08) 9192 1697

SHOPPING

Kimberley Bookshop

This bookshop has a beautiful, bountiful collection of books from the Kimberley region and is also filled with all the standard delights of a good bookshop.
www.kimberleybookshop.com.au

Magabala Books

This local publishing house and bookshop specialises in books written by Indigenous Australians from every corner of the country.
www.magabala.com

Azure

This women’s clothes shops is filled with fun and flirty dresses and owner Amanda Clatworthy will assure you that she only stocks one of each style of party frock.
Shp9/ 25 Carnarvon St (08) 9192 7262

Betty’s Frock Shop

Run by Cori Fong, from one of Broome’s oldest families, this women’s clothes shop has an exotic, eclectic feel and caters for mature women.
17 Carnarvon St, Chinatown (08) 9192 1567

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Shekki

This swimwear shop stocks an impressive range of swimwear – the staple garment for enjoying those white beaches and blue seas.
10 Carnarvon St (08) 9192 2514

Toyko’s

This women’s boutique holds a carefully-selected collection of all the best high-end labels you’ll find in the big cities.
2/15 Napier Terrace (08) 91922039

Linneys Pearls

Broome is famous for its pearl shops and this one is a favourite among locals.
25 Dampier Terrace (08) 9192 2430

PAMPERING

Bali Hai

This luxurious Balinese-style day-spa offers a world-class service and experience.
www.balihairesort.com

Hidden Valley Handcrafts

For beautiful soaps, oils and other pampering potions that help you take home sights and scents of the Kimberley. You can also find them at the Courthouse markets.
www.hiddenvalleyhandcrafts.com.au

EXPLORING

Willie Creek Pearl Tours

This popular tour talks visitors through the workings of the pearl farm and is packed with historical snippets about Broome.
www.williecreekpearls.com.au

Astro Tours

Explore the nightscape and solar system with Greg Quicke’s passionately presented tours, you can also stop by and chat to Greg at the Courthouse markets.
www.astrotours.net

Uptuyu

Neville Poelina runs these highly-regarded Aboriginal tours and where you go, well, it’s up to you on these tailor-made adventures.
www.uptuyu.com.au

K20

The Kimberley to Ocean tours offer adventures that will take you into the depths of the Kimberley in a boutique luxurious catamaran.
http://kimberleycruise.com.au/