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Gallipoli Sarah Harris 380x555 The green and gold invasion of Gallipoli

 

 

 

 

Bodies are everywhere. Thousands of them. Quiet, and still against the blasting wind of Anzac Cove.

Some are wrapped tight in our flag, but mostly they’re dressed in green and gold – beanies, footy socks, rugby jerseys – as they bunker down in their sleeping bags, determined to stay awake until until dawn.

It’s an image that makes many of us cringe, and for good reason: young Australians making the pilgrimage to Gallipoli for Anzac Day haven’t always done us proud. The boozing, the bogan behaviour, the event’s MC Warren Brown has seen the very worst of it.

‘Dickheads pissing on Turkish war graves, throwing beer bottles. One year, a group of drunk yobbos threatened to punch a Turkish security guard. It was appalling.”

Behaviour that should make us all ashamed to call ourselves Aussies.

A study, commissioned by the Department of Veteran Affairs in March, revealed we’re concerned our most sacred military site is in danger of becoming a place to party for Australians living abroad. But that’s not what I saw when I travelled to Gallipoli last April, on assignment for Channel Nine.

The green and gold invasion starts the day before the dawn service. They’re mostly in their 20′s, living in London, working crappy bar and temp jobs, making just enough money to fund their European adventures. They’re bussed in by the hundreds.  ‘It’s effing FREEZING!’ mutters a girl from Melbourne. ‘Imagine how those poor bloody diggers must’ve felt.’. She has the Australian flag painted on her face. Another bus load of Aussies arrive.

More green and gold, more proud painted faces. They look dressed for a footy match. I get chatting to a tattooed trade, from Sydney’s western suburbs. ‘My grand pop was killed in World War Two, so me and my dad are right into all that war history stuff,’ he tells me. This is his first trip overseas.

With its big red cliff faces and bright yellow wildflowers, Anzac Cove is startlingly beautiful… And small. The Turkish people have taken very good care of this place; we sometimes forget they lost fathers, sons and brothers here too. The Aussie contingent is respectful, filing quietly past neat rows of Port-a-loos into a roped off grass area, to set up for the long, cold night ahead. The event is well-organised and run with military-like precision. Every-one is given a wristband, bags are searched, and any alcohol is confiscated. It was banned back in 2003.

‘It’s much better now,’ Warren, the MC grins. ‘We show them war documentaries, we sing – anything to keep them awake and occupied until dawn.’

Gallipoli 380x258 The green and gold invasion of GallipoliAt midnight, the crowd turns into one great big choir, belting out ‘Waltzing Matilda’ through chattering teeth. It’s a far cry from the Bee Gees ‘Staying Alive’ scandal, which the RSL quite rightly blasted as ‘insensitive’ in 2005. This humble sing-a-long feels more like proud commemoration of a history that helped define us as a nation, not rock-concert style celebration.

Suddenly, dawn arrives, heralded by a long bugler blasting The Last Post. Everyone is standing, still and silent, as the notes hang sad and heavy in the air. There are many, many tears. Some try to wipe them away, making a mess of their painted faces. Others let the tears stream down their cheeks. No-one can escape the ambush of emotion daybreak brings; it’s obvious they’re humbled by the sacrifices thousands of young Australians made decades before them. ‘I’ve been fighting a lump in my throat the whole service,’ a young woman wearing a Kangaroos jersey smiles sadly. Her eyes are red and swollen.

I find I’m watching my fellow Aussies – a sea of green and gold gen-Yers – with a smile. Some are helping elderly tourists out of the reserved seating area, while others roll up their sleeping bags and pick up their rubbish, careful to avoid an embarrassing repeat of the 90th anniversary, which left Anzac Cove looking like a dump site. ‘We’re not all yobbos!’ a young bloke says defensively. ‘My great-great grandfather died here. This place is sacred.’

As we approach the Anzac centenary in 2015, I can’t help but feel the memory of our ANZACs and the land on which so many of them lost their lives, is in safe hands. .

And never have I felt more proud to call myself a young Australian.

Sarah Harris has been a journalist for more than a decade. She currently works as a reporter for the Nine Network and can be found on National Nine News. You can follow her on Twitter here.

 

 

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25 Comments so far

  1. Pingback: The green and gold invasion of Gallipoli Mamamia | turkischland

  2. Alicia Jane

    I was there this year (feeling pretty tired right now) and it was all the above and more. There were a few Australian’s behaving in an embrarssing manner at Lone Pine- mostly in response to Julia being there (why is it okay to treat our PM like any other celeb and holler innapropriate comments her way?!) Otherwise this was amazing. I am over in Turkey for a few weeks on a Uni Study tour, working with Turkish students in order to work together to come up with ideas for commemorating together in 2015- and believe me, their feelings are just as strong and proud as ours, an amazing and inspirational bunch infact considering it was their country being invated.

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  3. tassiegirl

    I was at Anzac Cove last year for Anzac Day … I built it in to my overseas travels because it was something I wanted to do so much.

    I have to say, my thoughts were similar to the girl from Melbourne in your story, Sarah…I was standing there cold, wearing my gloves, beanie and thermals and all I could imagine was how it must of been for the Diggers. Just the other day, walking down the street, freezing my butt off, I was taken back to that moment (and gave myself a mental kick up the bum)!

    I know its been said, but its true…no book I’ve read, movie I’ve seen, or even heck the 12 week uni course I did which was entirely about the experience of war taught me as much as that one night, and being at Lone Pine was one of the most moving experiences I’ve ever had.

    Lest we forget.

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  4. Steph

    Another lovely post Sarah, thank you.

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  5. Kellys

    I was at Anzac Cove for Anzac Day in 2005. My husband and I were living in the UK – no crappy bar jobs though – and we actually met my parents in Istanbul before going out to Anzac Cove with them. My dad spent thirty years in the Navy – as had every man in his family for the previous four generations. Our experience at Anzac Cove was just beyond words, it was spine-tingling, breathtaking and very emotional. My dad just stood there as the Last Post played with tears streaming down his face, in fact, we all cried. Nothing can prepare you for the starkness and steepness of the landscape, and the bitter cold overnight. It was bloody hard work walking up the paths to get to the Lone Pine memorial – and we didn’t have heavy packs to carrry or anyone shooting at us.

    We did not see or hear of anyone behaving badly – it was remarkably quiet and respectful. For those who say Anzac Day has been commercialised, go and see for yourselves and then make that claim, because that was not my experience. The Turkish people we met were kind and generous and very welcoming and seemed genuinely pleased to see us.

    Honestly, there was no book or movie that could ever have taught me as much about those diggers as actually being there. It brings tears to my eyes now just thinking about it, and has deepened my appreciation for soldiers everywhere, past and present, fighting wars not of their making.

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  6. Singleinoz

    Thank you thank you thank you…

    This is exactly how I felt in 2003 when I was lucky enough to be one of those expats living abroad who went to Gallipolli for ANZAC day.

    Lest we forget.

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  7. Seriously

    It’s Anzac Day guys. Not ANZAC Day.

    They were Anzacs. Not ANZACs.

    The corp is ANZAC.

    That is all.

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    • catfish

      Seriously…it’s Anzac day not Anzac Day.

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    • Anonymous

      No, naming conventions are ANZAC and ANZACs.

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      • Kathy W

        Yes, it’s ANZAC, which is an acronym – and as such is spelt all in capitals.

        Check the Australian War Memorial website.

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        • Seriously

          Actually, if you read the background of the word ‘Anzac’ on the Department of Veteran Affairs website, you will see that whilst it is an acronym, it quickly became a word itself.

          Have a read, it’s quite interesting really…

          http://www.dva.gov.au/commems_oawg/commemorations/protection_of_Anzac/Pages/background.aspx

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        • Kate Hunter

          Hey, this is a confusing one. We checked and are going with Seriously’s use. The term ANZAC refers to the Corps. It has morphed into a word which is why it is now considered correct to use the term ‘Anzac’ when referring to the cove etc. We all agree though, the soldiers, the place and the day all deserve respect :-)

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  8. georgiepie

    I was there last year! I was one of the Gen Yers living in London, working a crappy job. :) I actually didn’t see anyone being disrespectful at all, although we did see Aussie and NZ tv stations trying to find people doing something bad – the most disrespectful thing I saw was a Turkish security guard behind us talking and laughing during the dawn service. To be fair, I don’t like the fanatics, they’re bogan and love a VB or five, but everyone at Gallipoli was respectful. including the people dressed in green and gold! Why should we not show our pride? People only see it as bogan and tacky because of recent events, why should we be ashamed to love our country?
    Before you go in you have to go through the security checkpoint, and we were on a little one,not the main one, and we got quite angry because they were letting the men in first and not the women.
    ‘Why are they going in first?’
    ‘Men first, ladies after’
    hell no! Some of us used our high school debating skills to calmly talk to the guards who were pulling in the men from the very back and leaving some of the women who had been there all day to come in last. We got in.

    It was an incredible experience. I remember lying in my sleeping bag, bodies all around me, and listening to the classical music and commentary they were playing as the thousands of stars above me twinkled. I cried buckets during the service itself, sang both the Aussie and NZ anthem (lived in Christchurch for 5 years and it’s my second home) and took an hour or two for myself and wandered through the graves, Aussie, NZ and Turkish.

    No wonder the young bloke said ‘We’re not all yobbos’ defensively! My generation constantly puts up with everyone generalising and bashing us about being disrespectful etc – we’re not! the behaviour I saw while travelling overseas was 98% respectful, the other 2% were those idiots who take month long drunken contiki tours. and you had those idiots in your generation as well :)

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    • Singleinoz

      Ah yes be people shouldn’t generalise.

      I know some of the original “Fanatics”, shame you have generalised them all to be the same.

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      • georgiepie

        sorry, that was a joke…not a very good one. sarcastic font needs to be invented asap

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  9. F

    I was there in 2004 and it was an amazing experience. One I will never forget. When my boys are older, I will go back and take them.
    I didn’t see anyone who wasn’t respectful. Most people went to the aus, nz and Turkish service after the dawn service. Everyone understood that it wasn’t just about the Anzacs but also about the soldiers they fought against.

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  10. Poppy

    I visited ANZAC cove ten years ago and participated in the dawn service. It is something I will always remember and most of the people that traveled to Turkey did it for the right reasons. I still get tears in my eyes thinking back to the morning looking back at the cliffs remembering those brave soldiers. But something that brings me to tears mostly is thinking to that bitterly cold evening and all of us singing “I still call Australia home”.

    I am a very proud Aussie today thinking of soldiers of the past and the friends that are currently serving. Thank you.

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  11. susan

    omg! the tears are prickling my eyes….with pride to read that. I remember the 2005 disgrace and so happy to know all that has changed.

    Now if we can only get it too change at home we’ll be sweet, :)

    My grandfather was in WW1. My father and 7 uncles ( both sides of my parents) were in WW2. Thankfully they all came home to give me my childhood and childhood memories.

    My brother was in Viet Nam and is battling stomach cancer…..as so many men from those days are due to agent orange.

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  12. Max Power

    Sarah i really enjoyed your article but can’t help but think that the commercialism of ANZAC day has overtaken the actual meaning of the day. I don’t need to see sports tour companies (the fanatics) wearing matching green and gold beanies, t shirts, windcheaters and hats at Anzac Cove to make me remember the sacrifices that were made. If they turned up to the shrine of rememberance wearing that rubbish they would be ripped to shreds but somehow because they are overseas it’s ok. Show respect to those that made the sacrifices by honoring their name, not by dressing up as a knob because it makes you feel patriotic for a day.

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    • susan

      Sorry Max, I disagree.
      They’re colours to be proud of….if a bunch of Turks turned up wearing the hijab..would you think the same thing?

      It’s the respectful demeanour of the people wearing the colours that’s important.

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      • Max Power

        Well i think that’s the point. We’re in their country so why is it so hard to show some dignified respect instead of looking like a bunch of tools who have just come from screaming for Lleyton Hewitt at Wimbledon. The day is about respecting the fallen, not pushing a sports tour company’s profiteering. Check their webiste if you want to see why there is so many people there dressed in green and gold.P.S. draping yourself in the Australian flag is another one of my bug bears.

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        • Singleinoz

          Actually we wore those colours when I went because we were proud of our country and want to show where we were from. That is all.

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        • Anonymous

          I think most Australian’s would be more than a little put out if Japanese tourists rocked up in Darwin every year on the 19th of Feb draped in the Japanese flag, or if people of Turkish descent flocked by the hundreds to loudly and colourfully celebrate their fallen soldiers on Anzac Day at the Shrine of Remeberance.

          The fact that the Turkish government has been incredibly accommodating is often unappreciated.

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          • Kitten

            Thought-provoking analogy, which I bet will cop a bit of criticism. I think what I am learning about today is that I don’t care what country anyone comes from, or what side they were on, they obviously believed in what they were fighting for and the circumstances in which they endured were horrific and the losses terribly sad.

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            • tassiegirl

              Kitten, I sincerely hope you don’t cop criticism for your opinion. One of the over-riding themes I took away from being at Anzac Cove last year, was just that.

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  13. Jules

    The thing I love most about ANZAC Day is the pride that Australian’s show in their country.

    Thank you Sarah for sharing your story with us all.

    Lest we forget.

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