10 life lessons my kids learned from turtles

Last weekend we took the kids to Bundaberg, to see the turtles of Mon Repos.

They’ve seen turtles before – who hasn’t? They’re in pet shops and at the zoo. We’ve seen them (fleetingly) when we’ve been snorkelling, and ageing surfer-dude Crush is our favourite character in Finding Nemo.

‘Turtles schumurtles’, I thought. But the experience at Mon Repos turtle rookery is extraordinary.  Watching a Loggerhead turtle lumber up the beach,  dig her nest, lay more than 100 eggs then head back to sea taught my kids lessons about family, challenges and life:

1. Your mother worked hard to have you. Give her some respect.

2. Brothers and sisters are the only ones who really know what you’re going through.

3. Stick together.

4. Remember to keep your eyes on the horizon.

5. Your instinct is good. Follow it.

6. It’s more dangerous to stay still than move on.

7. The bright lights aren’t necessarily the right lights.

8.  Don’t rely on cute to get you through the waves.  Swim hard.

9.  Old turtles might not be pretty turtles, but they know what they’re doing.

10. When the time comes, you’ll find your way home.

Mon Repos  is about 20 minutes drive from Bundaberg. You book your experience turtle online (about $26 a family) and rock up about 6.30pm. Take insect repellent and a deck of cards. Nature runs to seasons, not schedules. It could be minutes or hours before the rangers patrolling the beach spot ‘turtle activity’ and call your group down to the sand. But there are displays, ranger talks and activities for kids to help pass the time.

We didn’t see baby turtles hatching the night we were there (the people the night before were luckier, typical. Hatchlings all over the place apparently). BUT we did watch a 30 year old female (the kids named her ‘Winona’) lay her eggs.

It was after eleven when ranger Lisa led us to the dune where Winona was digging her ‘egg chamber.’ The hole needs to be deep, but Winona used her flippers to dig with astonishing efficiency. Lisa said as long as we stayed behind Winona, she wouldn’t be bothered by our presence or Lisa’s torchlight.

Digging done, Winona lifted herself up on her front flippers and began laying her eggs. The kids counted – 115 eggs. Quite a clutch, Lisa told us, Winona’s third this season. Go girl.

Turtle eggs have soft shells and they’re covered in a clear mucusy goo, so they don’t crack when they fall onto each other. We saw the whole thing, close up, with Lisa taking extra trouble to make sure the kids could see and understand what was happening.

I worried a little about Winona’s privacy – she looked like she was crying – but Lisa assured us turtle ‘tears’ keep her eyes moist while she’s out of the water.

Eggs laid, Winona filled the chamber with sand and performed a surprisingly graceful u-turn and headed back to the sea. We clapped as she ducked beneath the waves.

In eight weeks, Winona’s eggs will hatch and her babies will emerge, dazed and clumsy. They look for the light where the sea meets the sky and scramble to the ocean. It’s a dangerous babyhood. Only one in 1,000 hatchlings will make it to maturity. Amazingly, those that do will instinctively return to their home beach to lay their eggs. Cue Elton’s Circle Of Life.

It was not an average Saturday night for our family. Normally we watch the Brisbane Lions get thrashed, or a maybe see a movie. This was special, and I highly recommend experiencing Mon Repos and poking around Bundaberg – either as a weekend getaway or part of a longer holiday (anyone say ‘road trip?’). There are lots of other things to do and see.

The day after meeting Winona we drove the easy 60km to the quintessential Queensland town of Childers. It was Australia Day, so we bought pies and lamingtons from a bakery on the main street. We visited a free-flight bird sanctuary and a family business that makes a bazillion flavours of ice-cream, most of them featuring macadamias. The Hinkler Hall Of Aviation is a (surprisingly) sophisticated attraction. The kids weren’t that keen to go, but in the end we had to drag them out.

You’ll eat and drink well in Bundaberg. Snapping fresh prawns as big as a ten year old’s hand and lashings of Ginger Beer the Famous Five could only dream about.

But it’s the turtles that are the stars of Bundaberg’s show. The hatching season lasts until the end of April.

If you meet Winona’s babies, tell them from us their mum is awesome.

Kate and her family travelled as guests of Tourism Queensland. For more information on experiencing  Bundaberg and the Fraser Coast click here.