The biggest eye makeup mistake women make.

Image: Getty.

Rae Morris is basically the Oprah Winfrey of the Australian makeup scene.

She’s been in the industry for 25 years, has her own line of makeup brushes, dolls up the faces of many a celebrity and has just released Rae Morris Makeup Masterclass, $69.99 (the book, interactive book and pocket companion app, of course).

We caught up with the beauty guru to talk makeup mistakes and her scientific approach to eye makeup.

What’s the most common eye makeup error you see people make?

“Have you heard of the Fibonacci Sequence? Or Phi, the Golden Ratio?”

No, I have not, it sounds mathematical – not my strong point! What is it?

“It’s a mathematical equation. You will find things more beautiful when they measure Phi. Companies like Aston Marton and Apple design all their logos and products with this equation in mind. To take it a step further, faces that are Phi are universally perceived to be beautiful; so Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Cleopatra. Every Leonardo Da Vinci painting is based on Phi.

When I do makeup women all want the same thing – an Egyptian almond eye shape. No matter their ethnicity or age, every time I do a woman’s eye makeup that is smokey or extended out from the eye, they always love it. I started to notice that every time it was a Phi measurement. And I thought, I need to teach women with droopy eyes, hooded eyes, small eyes and Asian eyes so they can make their eyes Phi.” 

Watch: Think you make a funny face when you apply mascara? So do we. (Post continues after video.)

So how do we make our eye makeup ‘Phi’?

“Most women do this, they draw the top eyeliner on first and join the bottom to the top. Biggest mistake. Find me a picture of a woman on a red carpet – ever – where you see this, as in, their eyeliner and eye makeup stops at the end of their eye.

It cuts your eyes off. It’s like saying ‘this is where my eye stops’. Instead, give your eyeliner a bit of a flick, extend the eyeliner on from the end of your eye or you’re selling yourself short. It can be even the smallest little smudge at the edge of your eye.” (Post continues after gallery.)

This is awkward, I’ve been doing that for years! Seeing as we’re on the topic of beauty mistakes, what’s the biggest lip makeup mistake you see?

“Frosty and glittery lipstick. It makes your lips look wrinkly and with glittery lipstick, the gloss goes and the glitter falls off your face. If you’ve got lines or any wrinkles or blemishes be careful of shimmery or glittery products, they enhance imperfections. Absolutely matte it down.”

With eyes, with everything. If you don’t believe me, get a shimmery eyeshadow and draw a line down the back of your hand, you can see every wrinkle on the back of your hand and that’s what it does to your face. Use matte instead, it’s almost anti-aging.”

What are the budget products you swear by?

“Rimmel have an amazing gel eyeliner. L’Oreal Lumi Magique Primer ($29.95) is a primer that crosses so many skin tones, it gives that Victoria’s Secret glow. I love Bourjois foundations, I have them in my kit. I love Egyptian cream, it highlights skin and gives shine more than lip gloss. It’s great on the body. My favourite mascara is L’Oreal Telescopic ($26.95) — it has the best comb wand in the world. I use them in my kit.”

Is it problematic to try lipstick on in store? (Post continues after audio.)

What are the timeless looks that aren’t going to go out of style ever?

“Glowing skin. Full eyebrows. Fine feline eyeliner flicks, soft lashes, soft contouring. A matte red lip is so modern. If you’re scared of trying a red lip, always make it matte and you’ll feel more comfortable.”

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